Guitar Studio: Online Music Academy

Replacing Strings on Acoustic, Classical, or Electric Guitar

Strings create tension and pressure on the guitar neck.

 Sometimes, we read online that improper handling, such as removing or installing strings, can cause sudden overpressure, which may warp the neck. If you have an old or damaged guitar that has been stored in an attic for years, this is a valid concern. In most other cases, however, this extreme issue is unlikely. For extra precaution, you can replace the strings one at a time. However, it is recommended to remove all strings and thoroughly clean the fretboard about twice a year.

For dark wood, use lemon oil for cleaning. The fretboard can become sticky from the grease and sweat from your fingers. Don’t be surprised by how dirty the neck is, and especially don’t be surprised by how nice it looks after a thorough cleaning. But indeed, avoid leaving your guitar without strings for days; try to do this all at once.

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When to replace strings

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Strings can be replaced at any time—some do it every week, while others only once a year. Many guitarists swear by the sharp, metallic sound of new strings, while others dislike it. So, replacing strings is entirely up to you! However, there are some criteria you should definitely consider. For steel strings, they are generally considered worn out when they start to rattle, if you notice that the elasticity has disappeared, if the strings show wear at the fret contact points, or if they feel rough and turn black (oxidation). Note: Strings that turn brown (rust) indicate that your guitar is stored in too-humid an environment!

What do you need

You will need a set of new strings (of course), nippers, and a string winder (to save your wrists). For beginners, I recommend placing your guitar on a chair or a table with a cushion under the guitar neck. An experienced guitarist might replace the strings with the guitar on their lap, but I wouldn’t recommend this for beginners, as it increases the risk of the guitar falling to the floor.

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Step 1: Remove strings

Loosen the string you want to replace, or if you want to remove all strings at once and clean the neck, loosen all the strings. Once they are somewhat loose, I cut the strings to save time. The strings are then removed one by one through the bridge elements at the back of the guitar. This process can vary from model to model. For example, on Gibson Les Paul models, ESP, etc., you need to push the strings directly through the bridge. On a classical guitar, you need to loosen the knot of the string at the bridge, while on an acoustic guitar, you should gently pull out the bridge pins (see image).

Step 2: fretboard brushing

This is not necessary every week, but you should thoroughly clean the fretboard with a microfiber cloth about twice a year. Please note, do not use just any cleaning product! For a dark fretboard, it is best to use lemon oil. Apply oil only 1 or 2 times a year; otherwise, the wood of the fretboard can become saturated and you might end up with a greasy mess.

Step 3 : Placing strings

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Then insert the new strings (one at a time) through the back of the guitar or through the bridge. For an acoustic guitar, replace the bridge pins (see top image). For a classical guitar with nylon strings, the strings must be tied to the bridge (see image).

Ensure that the strings are placed in the correct order: the thickest string should be at the top, and the thinnest at the bottom. Many brands of strings use color-coded ball ends to help with proper placement. Adjust the tuner so that the hole is parallel to the neck, allowing you to slide the string through without bending it.

Leave the string at least 5 cm longer than needed to ensure you have enough length to wind the string around the tuner. For thinner strings, I usually leave a bit more than 5 cm, but for the thickest string, this is less critical. Ideally, aim for 3 windings, which helps with sound quality and keeping your guitar in tune. However, don’t stress too much about this; the most important thing is to install the strings properly without dropping your guitar. Lastly, don’t believe that achieving the ideal 3 windings will make you a better guitarist.

Step 4: tie strings by making a loop

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Note: If you have, for example, a Fender Deluxe with locking tuners, you do NOT need to tie the strings. You secure the strings using the screw at the back of the tuners. In all other cases… Insert the string straight through the hole of the tuner. Bend the string outwards. Note: If your guitar has all 6 tuners on one side, always bend the string outwards. For example, with a Les Paul, bend the 3 thick strings outwards and the 3 thin strings towards you!

After bending the string, hold the short end with one hand and the long end with the other hand to keep the string tense. Insert the short end underneath the long end, make a loop over the long end, and wind it around the tuner. This creates a loop that tightens itself as you start winding the string. It is important to keep both ends tight during this process! Once you have made about one turn, you can release the short end, as the loop will have secured itself. However, continue tightening the long end until the string has sufficient tension. Tune the string roughly to pitch and then move on to the next string.

Step 5: stretching strings … to stretch or not to stretch, that is the question!

After all the strings have been replaced and roughly tuned, start by stretching or pulling each string. Some guitarists argue that stretching the strings affects their sound negatively. However, I haven’t noticed much of an impact, and remember that strings that aren’t stretched will constantly need retuning and won’t stay in tune. So, while stretching might have a minimal negative effect on the sound, it’s preferable to avoid dealing with a guitar that won’t stay in tune for the first few weeks. Besides, will stretching the strings suddenly make you a better or worse guitarist?

Moreover, stretching the strings serves an additional and very important function. You can pull the strings without worrying that they’ll snap immediately. Just kidding—yes, they can definitely break, but if they do, it likely means that the string was either improperly installed or had a manufacturing defect. It’s better for a string to break during this process than to snap during a performance, don’t you think?

Step 6: to cut or not to cut?

After stretching the strings, retune your guitar and then cut off the loose ends. You often see guitarists leaving these ends hanging, thinking it looks cool. However, it’s not cool—it’s just impractical. Firstly, you might cut yourself on the sharp ends, and secondly, if two of these ends touch each other while playing or moving the guitar, they can create unwanted noise. So, make sure to cut off those ends!

Step 7: tuning, stretching, tuning, stretching, tuning …

After stretching the strings, retune your guitar. You might need to repeat this process a few times if the pitch drops significantly after stretching. Once you’ve done this, your guitar should be well-tuned and ready to go!

Step 8: timing?

How long did it take you the first time? A full hour? Don’t worry, that’s completely normal. Over time, replacing strings will only take about 5 minutes